In Search of Chander Shekhar & Bros. Family book store on Mohan Lal Rd.(Urdu Bazar now) Lahore

The devastation of Sheetla Mata Ka Mandir left me indented with the unending and outdated politics of these two nations one Father and other the son. These meaningless attacks on religious places inflicting wounds that heal but leave indelible scars and marks on the psyche of progenies, who otherwise have pure embryonic mind that attains life untainted, unaffected and unscarred of any impressions. Since the day of my landing at Lahore Airport I have been showered with love and affection never seen or felt in my own nation from my own people or relations. Yet this sight of disappointment left me expressionless, quite lost and hollow within.

Once inside the quiet of Toyota (very favored car in Pakistan) I drew a piece of paper having notes and directions given by Mahender (Mohlajee) uncle to set out for a new destination.

“As you come out of the Mandir to proceed towards Lahori Gate, on your left is Police Station (Thana) Lahori Gate” he wrote. There it was before I could finish reading. Hurriedly, I took the picture of Police Station that looked as forlorn and dumb as a man who stood witness to the meaningless carnage and Hindu slaughter during 1947 August. It failed to make an impression as the walls appeared unpainted and worn-out caused by the pollution and dust of this crazy traffic. I should have gone inside to have a peak into its character and find out how many an innocent Hindu’s were betrayed by the Gora Sahib and Muslim dominated Police force of Lahore.

Never mind, perhaps my heart and feelings were partial to my hosts as their love and affection enveloped all my gloom. Now"gopast it and enter Mohan Lal Road,whichI think branches off on the left side from Circular Road. Mohan Lal Road is famous for book stores, publishers and printing presses.” Very detailed and graphic directions made my host comment on the writers’ memory and ability to recall finer points. He was further left speechless when told that my Uncle was just 11 or 12 years then.

I waded my way with a purpose and vigor of a young boy following his father to buy books for his new school. Apparently I was walking briskly, at the same time absorbing the surroundings and its activities through the corner of my eyes. There were all sorts of people, some carrying huge wicker baskets on their head balancing and carrying loads of books, some carrying note books and some carrying waste papers. It was very difficult, if not impossible, for any vehicle to drive through this maddening crowd, analogous of the scenes witnessed at Chandni Chowk or Ajmeri Gate or Khari Baoli of Old Delhi. I noticed a “Bharbunjan” selling “singara’s” (water-nut) at the road side. An all time favorite nut fruit sold from Lahore to the plains of Punjab, Delhi and Kolkata, a stark reminder of similarities in nature of forcibly divided nations. This “Bharbhunjan” woman reminded me of “Shaani” of Delhi who used to sit in a lane connecting Mata Sundari Place to Bengali Market and we children would watch her fascinatingly parching maize, wheat or lentils on a large iron Karahi(open hearth made of steel) that had sand filled. The maize in particular, used to puff and envelop the entire vessel and at times pop out to our amusement. The chana (Lentils) would be colored slight green and leave an all pervasive, invigorating and tasteful smell that still lingers in my memory. In winters she would be seen baking Tandoori Rotis( Flour dough baked pancakes), as we carried kneaded dough or plain flour for her from our homes.

Some street vendors were selling pens, envelopes, lighters (an odd man out), key chains, stickers, maps and all sorts of accessories needed by students of all classes.

On our way to Bauji’s Old Shop (Book Store) and Daddy’s Chander Shekhar & Brothers, informed my guide that Mohan Lal Road is now called Urdu Bazar. Earlier it was called Mohan Lal Road (Book Street of the East) that once boasted of famous shops like Doaba Press, Malhotra Brothers, Punjab Kitab Ghar, We manage to spot a temple that had smudged inscriptions in Sanskrit which managed to convey that it was a Hindu temple and not a Jain Mandir as stated by Uncle. Later Prem Uncle agreed that it was a Hindu temple managed by Great Grandfather and frequented by children during day time for studies. Bauji’s double door shop was first owned by Great Grandfather whose picture is shown in the blog (Shri Har Narain Mohla). Intial search led us nowhere as nobody agreed for a Jain Mandir in that area. We moved to parallel lane which was similar to Mohan Lal road in character as it housed book stores and stationery shops all over.There we were introduced to an old man of around 85 years in age who remembered olden days a fair bit. He recalled a twin shop underneath a Hindu temple (hinduan da mandar honda si) owned by Brahmans. He also remembered that one portion of the shop is closed ever since partition days. He recalled Doaba press but could not recall Chander Shekhar & Bros. location very succinctly. This gave us a new impetus.

Before I proceed further I must appreciate one Lahori practice of first seeking a persons name and origin and upon knowing that one is original Lahori, their happiness is unbounded and beyond my scope of defining. The amount of love, warmth and affection that outpours from within-as if compressed by a spring- overwhelms all your emotions and make you forget the very purpose of your existence in that place. It is nigh impossible to leave without having Piping hot “Pink tea” of Lahore-a “khalis”(pure) buffalo milk mixed tea, with flavours, pistacchios and almonds, unmistakably Pink in colour, sometimes also refered a “Kashmiri Chah” or “Green tea”. I was told that during chilly winters “karak”(strong) tea overtakes pink tea as it is boiling hot and thick, to be taken without blowing air to cool at rims of “kullar” (earthen ware glass)-usual practice adopted to lessen the impact of hot drink.

Anyway, we restarted from original place where temple was and pinpointed on a twin shop that had one shop open other closed-since partition days- and a small door leading upstairs. We went and spoke to the owner of shop who agreed to the fact that, these shops belonged to Hindu Brahmans before partition. Strengthened in belief that I am at the right place, imagined Bauji and Daddy sitting exactly how present Father and son duo were seated, going about their business. It was a great feeling, I mentally placed all the “kaidas”( grammar) books of Chander Shekhar & Bros. on the shelves of this shop- that Bauji managed to store for many decades in Motinagar house and later few samples were left at our place in Munirka. Regretfully, all of them have been lost for various reasons. As a naughty child (baal of chachiji) I relished touching those books especially when Bauji was around to watch his reaction from the corner of my eyes that would seemingly say “ here goes ancestral property at the hands of useless grandson” As always he held himself in check fearing Chachiji’s retort “Baal Hai”.

Next Search: New Shop CHANDER SHEKHAR & BROS.

“Go past the Mandir,” wrote Uncle Mahender in his directions to important landmarks of Lahore “a street will branch off on the LHS; this was a short cut to Anarkali. Continue on Mohan Lal Road, on the LHS there was book bindery, Parpunja’s and entry door to a house. Past the entry door 1^st or 2^nd shop was the “Chander Shekhar & Bros.” book shop. A book store was next door followed by a door to a house. Then, 2 book shops of Doaba Brothers. Across was Lala Jagat Narain’s printing press. He was an important congress leader of Lahore. After partition, he settled in Ludhiana and started Hind Samachar group. He was a minister of Education. At Papaji-Bhabiji(Chander Shekhar & Sheela) wedding, he sent a letter of congratulation and best wishes. The letter might be in Papaji(Chander Shekhar) or Bauji’s( Grandfather Mohan Lal) papers.”

We did exactly the same and located Parpunja’s shop (you will see in the video with a street leading to Anarkali bazaar) but to our great dismay original shop of Chander Shekhar & Bros. was demolished and a new building stood as stark contrast to all olden structures, thereby robbing me of a great chance to experience, enjoy and imitate my father’s business of pre-partition days.

Thus, my hot pursuit of an important landmark i grew up hearing all my childhood, came to an end. It was a damp squib(anti) climax of a movie that promised a lot but failed to deliver at the Box-office.